End of May — a Midorikai interlude

May 19

We had our first chashaku carving practicum today. The guy who taught it made it look so easy. We got out our blades and began slowly shaving away small pieces of the bamboo strips to make the bent tea scoop that we use when we lift tea from the tea container and put it in the tea bowl. It’s basically a wooden scoop or spoon just for tea. These items are always made by hand and you can tell a lot about a person based on how this utensil is formed. Is it narrow or thick? Is it rough or smooth? Is it too long to be useful? Is it well-balanced? Did the person make long, confident strokes with their blade or short, hesitant ones?

IMG_4458I’m attaching a picture of mine. It ended up being way to thin and too short, but I was proud of it all the same. This chashaku will be exchanged via an Urasenke school program with a tea group in Fukushima. We will be receiving one back from them as well. I did writing on the tube myself which says the name of the scoop and my name. As you know Fukushima had the terrible earthquake and issues with the nuclear plant, so any chashaku I get back from there will have a deeper meaning attached to it that I can think about every time I use it. (And no, it won’t be radioactive, our teachers told us this already.)

Every chashaku is always given a name by the person who carved it. This one I called “Ame o tanoshimu,” or literally, enjoying the rain. I selected this gomei (poetic name) because, to me, it is a good example of how rain is a symbol of cleansing and purifying both literally and metaphorically. I also said that it rains a lot where I come from in America. This was written in an explanation letter which will be translated and sent along with the chashaku tube. I hope someone is able to use it and enjoy it!

May 25

We had O’iemoto’s monthly lecture / address to the school. In these situations, we show up to school in our best kimonos and wear the little earbuds that have a translator telling us what he is saying. It made me feel like I was in the United Nations! It’s pretty cool. As I reread some of the notes I took in my pocket moleskin, I see that he mentioned some great things to keep in mind for anyone let alone “tea people:”

He said that when things become too complex, return to your base: take a moment to notice the feeling in the air, the space around you, the conditions all around. When the wind blows you over, don’t make excuses for the wind. Just try, try. Then it was a mistake you didn’t have to make. Failures, mistakes lead to success. Recover from them. You can see you have more to learn and can grow even more. Then you won’t have regrets. Throw away the thoughts in yourself, your personal feelings about things that bother you. Take the animosity, the pride and throw it away.

He also said to consider all that has come before to lead to this one moment. For example, consider when you drink water to think about the snow melting in to water, flowing down the mountain to the river, leading to the reservoir, going around and around and finally ending up in our bodies. Or the seed that grows in to a plant which bears fruit which winds up on our table and sustains our lives. Or, in the tea room with guests, all of the ancestors who came before both you and your guests who brought you to this one shared moment in time which will never come again. Take value in every moment, in every minute.  …wow… I’m not learning about “just tea” here. I’m learning about how to live a beautiful, reflective, life of gratitude.

May 26 – First Student Chakai

We had our first Keiko Chakai of our sempai, Anna. She did a remarkable job with all the preparations and all of the guests (there were 7 of us) had a wonderful time. A chakai is like a party that is similar to something (in Western culture) that Martha Stewart would create: it has every detail planned out from the invitations to the decorations to the food. However, unlike western culture, a chakai has spiritual goals as well. It is trying to create harmony between guests.

The details that the host has prepared are supposed to make the people in the room feel special but without saying anything explicit. An example of this, is that our first guest is from Hawaii, and our host selected a natsume (tea container) with a hibiscus flower on the top. She noticed and thanked the host for being so thoughtful in selecting this particular item. There are thousands upon thousands of things the host could have picked from, and yet, she selected this one tiny thing because she knew it would bring her guest pleasure.

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Our lovely host was wearing a beautiful obi she borrowed with matryoshka dolls on it, a nice nod to her heritage and the shared heritage of one of her other guests.

I experienced this feeling my first time coming to Urasenke with Kevin for a short visit and in my letter asking for permission to come, I mentioned that in Portland the daffodils had just started to bloom. When I came to Japan about 6 weeks later, the tea bowl that I received my delicious tea in had daffodils on it. Was it a coincidence to serve me that bowl? Absolutely not. They had made a note, somewhere way back when, that daffodils were blooming in Oregon and that bowl was served to me. It was a small gesture. It didn’t cost them anything, so to speak. And yet that gesture spoke droves to me. The key thing, the thing that makes it unique to this culture, is that after I had drunk my tea and returned that bowl, the host DID NOT come in and say “did you notice what was on the bowl?” That would have been the western thing to do. The host just lets it go unsaid and the guest may make an observation about it. Sometimes your guests might not even notice that you made the gesture in the first place. But the key is that you know. And that’s something that’s intuitive, it really can’t be taught. IMG_4504

Our teacher Hamana-sensei told us this story about how thoughtfulness can’t be taught but it can be observed and absorbed by others. His example was that he started to cough in lecture and a student got up and got him a glass of water. However, it was winter time and the water wasn’t just tap water. It was warm tea drinking temperature, so it was soothing to someone with a sore throat. He didn’t tell this as an example to shame us in to not paying attention to the needs of our teachers, but rather as an example of something to emulate. It cost nothing for that student to leave the room and bring water. No money was spent and no gift was given. But that tiny gesture spoke loads to this teacher and he still tells that story.

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Here is a nice picture of me wearing kimono kneeling at the tsukubai cleansing my hands before entering the tea room.

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We have a winner!

It gives me great pleasure to announce the winner of the furo and kama set. It includes the kan (rings) and shiki ita (board under the furo).  Congratulations to Ana Martinez who answered all of the questions correctly in the contest.  I hope you use it and enjoy your studies for many years to come. You can pick up your prize the next time you come to class.

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Mid-May update, a Midorikai interlude

May 10
We had the annual tea plantation and manufacturing process field trip to Uji today. All the Midorikai students and second-year Japanese students woke up early to catch the train from Kuramaguchi station to Uji. We started at Marukyu Koyama-en for a tea plantation tour and fresh tea tasting. I’ve had their koicha before while studying in Portland and it is quite enjoyable and flavorful.
Picking tea on the tea plantation

Picking tea on the tea plantation

We took a tour around the fields where the tea bushes are growing and picked some new tea leaves under the watchful eyes of the tea plantation pickers (all older ladies). Then we were shown around the tea processing facilities and it was fascinating to see the traditional process as well as the modern adaptations. We ended the tour by drinking some bowls of excellent usucha with some matcha dango sweets. Our guide was Kiki, a Midorikai graduate originally from Chile.
The master taster of Koyama-en is selected at birth and therefore his pallet is kept “pure” with no strong foods: no spicy foods, no coffee, no garlic, etc…for his entire life! I don’t know if I could live without those three things. Not eating these types of foods keeps the pallet ultra-sensitive, they said. I bought some matcha soap since we can purchase their tea from their Kyoto shop.
Many people also wanted to stop by Nakamura Tokichi, so some of the students ate there during our lunch break. We had the prefix lunch menu of matcha noodle ramen and matcha powder sprinkled over rice. Dessert was matcha jelly. (Burp) It was all tasty but I was pretty burnt out from the matcha flavoring by then.
After lunch we walked down to Kambayashi Kinenkan and were served more tea and sweets before walking through the tea manufacturing museum they have there. The Kambayashi family has an excellent collection of famous tsubo (tea jars). Mr. Kombayashi himself gave us the tour. Makela-sensei did the translation for us.
Lastly we stopped by the Asahiyaki kiln. They create beautiful “fawn-spotted” pieces made from the very unique clay they have on the mountain next to the kiln. The new young master (the previous master passed away a few years ago and his son now runs the kiln) showed us the work room and the kiln. All the wheels are hand-turned while the potter sits on his knees at the same level as the wheel. The reason was, he explained, was so the body and hands stay still while forming the pieces, versus a kick wheel that moves the whole body. I would have loved to buy something there, but most of the tea utensils were in the $500+ league.
The Phoenix Hall at Byodoin

The Phoenix Hall at Byodoin. Inside the open doors is the beautiful Buddha statue and lovely paintings.

Some students wanted to see Byodoin and specifically the Phoenix Hall, which is an UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s difficult to not get accustomed to seeing these things and places on a frequent basis that have such great importance to the people of Japan and the history of the human race, since many of the Japanese UNESCO locations are in or around Kyoto. Byodoin has an amazing Buddha statue inside this beautiful Phoenix Hall that is in the middle of this little pond. It has a small museum that has many historic pieces related to this National Treasure. The Japanese also rank their museum pieces as either an “Important Cultural Item” or “National Treasure” depending upon the importance of the piece. Very few items receive this distinction and it’s always worth having a second glance at something that has the label that marks it as extra special. Many museum collection tea utensils and items associated with the tea ceremony have these distinctions.

May 15
Today was Aoi Matsuri and so I spent most of the day on my bicycle travelling from place to place to see the procession. I’ve utilized some text from Wikipedia (for time’s sake) to highlight what the Aoi Matsuri festival is about:
The procession is led by the Imperial Messenger. Following the imperial messenger are: two oxcarts, four cows, thirty-six horses, and six hundred people, all of which are dressed in traditional Heian period apparel decorated with aoi leaves. The hollyhock (aoi) was thought to have been a protector against natural disasters. The festival originated during the reign of Emperor Kinmei (reigned CE 539 – 571) to appease the angered deities and pray for a bountiful harvest.
Aoi matsuri Ox cart

Aoi matsuri traditional Ox cart

The event always falls on May 15 and we were lucky that this year it fell on a beautiful Sunday. At 10:30 am the parade/procession departs the Kyoto Imperial Palace heading east on Marutamachi-dori. It then heads north and crosses the bridge to it’s first appeasement stop at Shimogamo Jinja. After a few hours there, the procession heads west on Kitaoji-dori to arrive at Kamigamo Jinja.
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Aoi matsuri traditional rider in Heian clothing

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Ichigo ichie and farewell

P1030593My heart is heavy from this past weekend as I learned that a friend of mine passed away. There were three of us who studied together with Minako sensei every Thursday night for many, many years, and now he is gone, and Minako sensei is gone.

It seems like we grew up together and now my tea brother has passed on to the next world.   He was a man of many talents. I took shodo lessons from him because he was such a good calligrapher. I have some scrolls and shikishi he has written for me over the years.  He was a fabulous cook and made really good sweets.  He also made the most amazing pottery.  With simple hand tools, he crafted fine works in wood, and was an excellent writer.  He even set up the tea room so I could make tea for my parents when I got married.  Most of all he was a good friend who never forgot me even when I moved away or was busy.

In the tea room this week is a shikishi he wrote for me, “Ichigo ichie”  One lifetime, one meeting.  It has taken on more significance for me in that it seems like I knew my friend for a lifetime, and yet I would like one more meeting with him.  It is comforting to have this calligraphy in the tea room as if his spirit is still with us.  Quiet, hardworking, dependable, a man of few words, but big heart.  We must go on without you. Farewell.

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Golden Week, a Midorikai interlude

May 7
We have had some days off several public holidays on Friday April 29 and May 3-5. Since last I wrote I’ve done quite a lot. Some of us on Saturday, April 30 went to an Art of Zen exhibit at the Kyoto National Art Museum. I learned the story of Daruma (the little red ball guy with scary eyes) is a ball because the real Daruma (important person in Zen history) supposedly sat staring at a wall for nine years until his arms and legs atrophied and fell off. Also he cut off his own eye lids because he was frustrated he kept falling asleep during meditation. Thus, the “scary eyes” on the little dharma dolls. In actuality he was a founder of the Zen sect of Buddhism.

We made the shift to wearing kimono full-time beginning in May. We have only a handful of kimono, so slowly we will begin to acquire more. For those of us who are tall and curvy it is very difficult to find affordable kimono that will fit. Luckily I came with one kimono that fits well enough and there is our scholarship kimono, which will be necessary to keep pristine for special events. Other than that it’s about shopping for things slowly and as the seasons dictate. Wearing the most appropriate seasonal kimono is an art on to itself! Luckily the school doesn’t care if your kimono is not truely 100% in season (i.e. that your obi has specific motifs that are relating to what is blooming in nature, etc.) but as long as you are wearing kimono presentably, you are good.That’s another thing I’m glad I learned before I came here: How to dress myself in kimono in under 30 minutes. It REALLY allows me to sleep longer in the mornings and every minute of sleep counts here.

may7bI also went to a sencha demonstration at Nijo castle. I’ve never seen a sencha tea ceremony a nd it was fascinating. They had two different schools present in two of the famous closed to the public tea rooms at this beautiful shogun castle in the heart of Kyoto. The tea was served in these small sake sized cups and you only sipped about a thimble’s worth of tea. Very interesting but tasty.May7c

Todaiji Temple Kenchashiki
The highlight of this week was absolutely the tea offering made by Daisosho and Urasenke to the Todaiji Temple in Nara. Daisosho is the retired grand tea master and his mission of spreading peace through a bowl of tea is why he created the Midorikai program in the 60s. He is the reason why us foreign students are allowed to be here. Two other students and myself went to the event. We were up at 4:45 am to make it in time to enjoy the first seki (tea gathering). We went to all four tea gatherings, one tenshin meal, and one offering to the temple by Daisosho himself! Our legs were so tired by the end. I can’t explain what a pleasure this day was. The dogu (utensils) were all museum pieces. We are talking pieces from the 1600s up to the present. Perhaps a 1,000 people in kimono!

May7aAnd the location! Todaiji holds the record as the largest wooden structure in the world! It houses a massive, giant Buddha statue inside. Without the tea event being held there this would be a special place. Also you can feed the wild deer who are the protected spirit animal deities that roam around. Amazingly we had the opportunity to greet Daisosho-sama twice. He is 93 but still as healthy as ever! He came over and greeted us and shook our hands. This is a big deal. It would be like President Obama coming over and shaking your hand – NO JOKE! He is that much of a honored person in this world.

May7Later on in the day when we were waiting for the second seki to begin, we saw him and his handlers again. He saw us again and called over the official photographer and we had our picture taken with him. He is such a genuinely kind and caring individual. Sort of like the Dalai Lama or Mother Teresa…someone who just embodies all that is good and kind in this world. And it wasn’t that he just noticed us or greeted us. It’s the fact that he does this kind of stuff all over the world, to all sorts of people and he genuinely
means it. He isn’t doing it to win elections or make money. He does it because he wants to do it. I can really respect that characteristic,  that honesty, in a person.

Other matters
I’ve been exploring the possibilities of improving my Japanese while I’m here. I took an online lesson through a webhost called iTalki. I had researched that company when I was wanting to improve my Swedish. I found a nice Japanese coach through that site who was really good who I think I will work with occasionally. I also enrolled in a
Conversational course forJapanese residents that is available at the Kyoto Prefectural International Center. The web independent course will be great to have a place to practice specific things I need for my time at Urasenke, whereas the conversational class will give me confidence and experience just conversing (normally) with people.
Hopefully it will help focusing on language growth a few hours a week! I suppose it’s better than nothing,  onsidering how much I have to use my VERY limited Japanese here. Both classes assume that I know how to read and write hiragana and katakana, so glad that I worked on learning those alphabets while I was still in the US. Now just to put those letters (pictographs?) together to make words!

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